Three Unique Experiences I Enjoyed with Strangers in Armenia

After my visit to Azerbaijan, I planned to visit neighbouring Armenia.

From Baku, I had to take a flight 1,925 km away to Moscow and then reach Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, via a connecting flight.

Yerevan is just 453 km away from Baku, but such is the nature of geopolitics. But I am glad I made that effort.

Yerevan is an ancient city. It has numerous monasteries all around and even a blue-tiled Mosque.

Armenians are mainly Christians. They were the first state in the world to adopt Christianity as the official religion.

Iranians who want to escape the US embargo carry on their trade from Armenia. There are Indian students studying medicine in Armenian Colleges.

It is a city that hosts many populations and ethnicities.

The highlight of the trip were the monasteries and the people.

The only way to get to the monasteries that dotted the hills around Yerevan was by private car with a guide or a guided day tour. The public transport was sketchy.

I was undecided about what to do when I met Hamlet.

I was sitting near the fountains in the main square in Yerevan when someone from a nearby bench spoke to me. I did not understand a word, so he repeated himself in English and asked me where I was from.

As we chatted, Hamlet offered to show me Geghard and Garni monasteries near Yerevan and some museums for a reasonable price.

He was off duty from the college where he taught English. It was holiday time there so he was free to go. He claimed his parents named him Hamlet since Shakespeare was a long name.

Hamlet brought his car around, and we drove off. On the road before every monastery, he would stop and show me how they were built to be hidden from view.

The monks carved them behind rock walls and monoliths to stay hidden and avoid persecution. On the drive, we crossed hills and valleys with lush fields. They made a pretty picture.

At Geghard Monastery, we got lucky and witnessed a violin recital inside the main chamber. The hall echoed melodiously to the beautiful strains of the violin. Coming out, we were treated to a dance performance to celebrate someone’s wedding. Hamlet explained to me the dance, the moves and the music.

It was evening when we returned to Yerevan, and I offered to buy him dinner. We made a great meal of beer and Lahmajun before he dropped me off at my hostel.

After visiting monasteries around Yerevan, I wanted to explore the rural part of Armenia, especially Tatev and Dilijan.

Boris (can it get more Russian than this!?) was staying in the same hostel in Yerevan and wanted to visit Tatev. The girl at the reception helped us team up since Boris spoke only Russian. She also arranged a shared taxi and our accommodation. I hesitated for one moment, but my desire to explore won.

We set off.

Boris in the front with the driver and me in the backseat, all to myself. Many Armenians understand and speak Russian, so they both chatted through the ride.

From the animated discussion, I am sure it was all political. We passed near Armenia’s border with Nakhchivan, an Azerbaijan Autonomous territory. Boundaries between these two countries are always tense.

Our first stop was Tatev.

Tatev is famous for two things — the monastery and the Guinness Record holder — Wings of Tatev.

We went straight to the tramway to ride before it shut down for the day.

Located in the Sisian province, Wings of Tatev is the longest reversible aerial tramway. You can gaze down on the Tatev village and the monastery as it crosses hills and valleys.

Once we were done with the visit, the evening was ours. We were the only guests on the rustic farm, and the owners were welcoming. I played with a puppy and the farmstead children, but they soon went off to have their meals.

Boris gestured that our dinner would be served shortly and that we should go to the dining room.

He had opened a wine bottle from among the many on display and indicated it was his treat. I poured myself a glass. Having visited the Areni Winery earlier in the week, and it was delightful to experience boutique wines.

Boris turned on his tablet and proceeded to launch YouTube. While he did that, I walked around the kitchen admiring the showpieces and instruments on display.

He called and asked me to join him to watch something on his tablet. I was unsure, but I got treated to the most hilarious movie I had seen in a long time — Mimino.

It was in Russian, but the language did not matter. I could easily make out what was happening and enjoyed the timeless comedy.

The next day, we made our way to the Tatev monastery, which was undergoing maintenance. It is beautifully perched on the hillside and houses an oil mill, flour mill and old finds.

After lunch, we made our way back to Yerevan.

Boris who worked in a diamond mine in Siberia was leaving for Moscow the next day. I thanked him for the company, the wine and for introducing me to Mimino.

I now had my sights set on Dilijan for hiking and lake visits.

My accommodation was a lovely little homestay booked in a village just above Dilijan town.

A single bus went up and down, connecting the hilltop villages with Dilijan. All you had to do was wave it down, toss a coin in the cap kept next to the driver and sit.

I took a day to figure out this system, but it worked wonderfully.

On my third day there, I landed back in Dilijan after a small hike to a local lake called Praz Lich. I had a lovely meal at Café #2 and then headed to the road head where the bus would pass.

A young girl working in the Café finished her duty and joined me at the bus stop.

We got talking.

The most delightful thing I learnt was that Miriam would make her way to my home town, Pune, in the next year. She would be there as a part of an international student exchange. Of all the places — one girl from remote Armenia knew my city. I was thrilled with the info and exchanged phone numbers with her.

The bus was late, so we started walking up as we spoke. She told me about her family and her aspirations to become a doctor. She wanted to go and study in America eventually.

We stopped at a small kiosk where I encouraged her to get herself a treat as a thank you for giving me company.

Time flew as we walked and conversed. I arrived at the turn-off to go to my homestay, and she had to make her way a little further. I wished her luck and parted.

Armenia treated me to many delights — Food, culture and sights. It has attractive and well-preserved monasteries. Lake Sevan and the many routes that make up the Transcaucasian Trail are its natural delights.

My fondest memories are those of the people — Hamlet, Boris and Miriam, along with the hostel and homestay staff.

Strangers to begin with, who opened their homes and hearts to another stranger from a faraway country.